Ride specific tire pressure
This is a starting point. Change it in steps of 0.1 bar (about 4%) and ride the same loop again.
The numbers land in the middle of six well-known gravel pressure calculators, usually within a few percent. More weight means more pressure. Wider tires and wider rims mean less. Paved roads add pressure, rough trails take some off. The front gets a little less than the rear. Your own adjustment is added last.
A route's surface mix is a best guess. The tool only knows what Komoot, Ride with GPS or OpenStreetMap report, and they don't always agree. OpenStreetMap labels many of its paths as dirt or ground, so the GPX file comes out mostly rough. Komoot calls most of the same paths "unpaved", which counts as loose gravel. For a typical rider that's about 0.35 bar less on the rear via the GPX file than via the Komoot link. Know the route? Set the sliders to what you'd expect.
Use the result as a starting point. On a loop you know, let out 0.1 bar at a time until the tire feels vague in corners or you hit the rim. Then add 0.1 bar back. Check with a good digital gauge: pump gauges are often 0.2–0.3 bar off.
Never go above the maximum printed on your tire or rim. Most hookless rims allow 5 bar (72 psi) at most.